New York City hasn’t had a good run of Indian restaurants for a while. In the old days there was Madras Woodlands and I still miss Haveli, but a new wave of higher end Indian restaurants that care about their core ingredients is upon us and let us rejoice. Poetically, much of the new action is taking root around 6th Street, the Indian Row of yore. And in Adda, its newest addition one can finally go for the wine as well as the food. This is a New York City first.
Adda occupies the old Huertas location, redone in soft-core Bollywood. While I sat in one of the comfy booths with the restaurant’s publicist, I eyed the pretty bar— begging me to come in, get a bottle and order both of the chats on offer and maybe every single pickle from their pickle cart.
I adored the smoky, spicy paneer khurchan, a semi-dry curry.
The queen’s mushroom dish- seared beauties on a bed of spiced hung yogurt was surprisingly packed with flavor for such simplicity. Most entrees come in medium Le Creusets, including the pomfret (when have you last seen pomfret on a menu?) sliced into steaks and simmering in fragrant coconut sauce. And the aforementioned chats? Done.
The portions are built for leftovers. The flavors are indeed wine friendly and there’s a list to make you want to experiment.
Selling wine with Indian food has always been tough and I’m not sure if it’s because people often gravitate to beer or historically the wine lists suck—mostly the result of unscrupulous salespeople who stand in as ‘advisor,’ taking advantage of owners who know little about wine. But this one sure is different, with plenty of choices for the picky, like me.
Jeffrey Gold is in charge of the list.
Gold has no visible tattoos, piercings or a baseball cap. He’s an adult and one who looked very familiar. When I asked him what his wine lineage was, I learned that he had been ‘curating’ the Raoul’s list for a year and a half. But that’s not where I thought I recognized him from. Nope. It was from the long-gone wine bar on Gansevoort Street Rhône, which existed between 2000-2007.
Obviously, as a wine person, Gold is mostly self-taught (“tasting, tasting, tasting.”) He goes by his own book not Instagram or loyalty to one particular importer. When asked how he defined his list he said his emphasis was on organic or beyond viticulture and “minimal” intervention.
There’s a nice vintage choice here, not everything is 2023. I also love that for Nebbiolo he bypassed Barolo and Barbaresco for Alto Piemonte and Carema. While the list is not inexpensive, the markups are what passes as gentle these days, mostly barely more than double retail and sometimes not even.
What would I do differently? This is an unfair question, but thanks for asking.
The list is new and evolving. Gold is watching the customer. In the end, the list is concise and chosen well. There is enough selection to give those drinking naturally or drink conventionally comfort-even under $100 a bottle. This is not too much to ask for, but few do.
I started with a glass. There were six choices that I could have been happy with. If I was going red? Hard to sidestep that Saint Cyr. Love Raphael Saint-Cyr’s work. But I couldn’t resist the Paraiso, 2019, a clear sign that this list was put together attentively. The wine is a showstopper; a beautiful example of depth and interest. On a steamy night it was refreshing and fabulous with enough flavor and weight to play with the complexity of the spices.
Of course, we did also choose a bottle.
2023 Thibaud Boudignon Anjou ($108).
I generally appreciate their cuvées, but for the food on the table, I found myself needing more heft in this Chenin. Second guessing myself, I regret not have taken Gold’s suggestion for the Patelle Chardonnay. Damn. I forgot that I have been meaning to experience that producer.
Now, if I were ordering red? I’m not much of a fan of red burgundy with Indian but I never had goat brains who knows? I bet one of Camille Thiriet’s wines would work well—but when I return, and ordering the smokey paneer, and I’m drinking red— my choice will be the blend of Nebbiolo and Croatina in the form of that Noah 2019 ($120).
Okay folks, this is an interactive post. So, what would you drink? Be sure to leave your thoughts in the comments!
I would have loved to have seen Sicilian Nerocapitano on the menu. Lightly chilled that would've gone down a treat with the bheja fry (though realise that probably wouldn't be your choice when ordering!! and I may be somewhat swayed by the fact that its 33 degrees in London today!) Failing that, I would have gone for the Fleurie which i think would certainly have added something to the adda.
Big upvote for the Saint Cyr! But also super interested in the Familia Nin Ortiz Priorat 👀 noting these for my next visit!!
Honorable mention is the Anne Dubois Fleurie — beautiful beautiful wine