Very popular spot for a good reason, near Chatham Square in the heart of Chinatown/Two Bridges area. With seductive lighting, and long bar, it’s sexy enough for date night, while the food is delicious enough for everyone.
If they have winter tomatoes ($18) turns out you can trust them. The Cantabrian anchovies, worth their pedigree. The gildas ($6)—the anchovy skewered with an olive? Who could complain? And the acclaimed steak? You’re on your own.
While the list somehow doesn’t inspire as much confidence, a careful navigation will make for a happy evening. Yet, where was the sherry?
Its been embraced by the cool-kid natural scene, yet there are quite a few clunkers that sit next to Anders Frederick Steen. As I was leaving I asked, "A pinxto bar with no sherry?"
"There's so much sherry here!" Was the response. I guess I should have asked.
Note to self: Must return. Which is easy because they’re open daily.
Okay, class. Here are a few sample pages from the list. I’m keeping my mouth shut on the bubble possibilities. Please give me your opinion.
For the whites.
With all of the fabulous, interesting, magnificent Spanish whites out there, I don’t get why thy don’t dominate the list. I am very curious about the Puro Rofe Juan Bello from Lanzarote, but I’d rather pay the $55 for it at More Wine then experiment for $140 here.
The Camille et Mathieu Apffel from Savoie. Jacquère, zero/zero. Well priced and I’ve been impressed with their wines. Worth the try.
A little bit more money? The Domaine Mosse’s have been so good now that the kids have taken over. And a little Chenin from Bonnes Blanches with the teensiest bit of age? $120? Sure.
For the reds,
This list doesn’t want me to dig into the pocketbook, though the Gonon 2014 was tempting as it was a favorite vintage—but did it hold up? $350 isn’t that bad. I would’t say no if you were buying.
Here, I most likely want to go cheap. What about the I CA RO? A young wine from Lazio, not far from Rome from a group of friends I’ve been curious about. This is a red and white blend. $74? Possible.
However, I do know that the 2011 Flavio Roddolo, while we can’t really call it natural, it is a knock out. $120, like double retail, isn’t bad.
Château Meylet. $90. Michel Favard was one of the earliest of natural Bordeaux, being a Chauvet/Néauport disciple. I remember ethereal wines from my long ago visit. I have not had them since they were in the hands of Michel’s son, David. I might hit that one up the next time.
Jean Maupertuis? I get some every vintage if I can find them. However this was a somewhat mousey vintage— the kind which would resolve, which might be just about now. At $70 it could have been a good choice. But I know it. In fact it’s in my cave.
Same deal with Hervé Souhaut? Know and love. Just because of that, we went with something that I hadn’t had in a long time. Antoine Sanzay Saumur Champigny, Les Poyeux 2023. $100—and not listed above. It was fine. But a hint of brett and the wood, didn’t hit our sweet spots.
I’m betting that the Clos de Mourres 2021 at $63 was the list’s bargain. So, should I go back, and I hope to, leave me a bottle please.
Even though I’m dithering here on the wine list, don’t understand its direction, there is just something about the place that makes me want to go back. Soon.
Tell me please which ones would be on your to buy list. I often learn from your picks.
From a reader: "Really all over the place list. The Pepe Pecorino is 2x markup. I haven't bought Roddolo in a few years and can't believe the pricing. It was our go to $85 wine at Fausto for years. Tough list but maybe the Dard & Ribo. Haven't tried the '24s though. "
Some looked wonderful, but the markup is breathtaking! I have been wanting to try a wine from the Canary Islands, but may have to wait until I go, if I go.