Hokkaido Wine Producers #2

DOMAINE MONT 

Who: Atsuko Yamataka 1.8 hectares Varieties: Pinot Gris 

Our next stop was a ten-minute drive away, set back in hills that reminded me of the Jura. We followed the equipment which led us to the quiet winery, past the parade of spent Overnoy bottles. We were startled to see a woman climbing out of a tank in wellies, her last pigéage. Vintage 2022 was almost done; seven weeks of fermentation were over. 

This was Atsuko Yamataka’s place. Years back he came to Yoichi for the snowboarding and stayed for the wine. The son of tea dealers, which he claims sensitized his palate, he worked with Takahiko Soga for a few years before striking out on his own in 2016. His bold choice: all 1.5 hectares planted to ungrafted pinot gris. 

But why pinot gris? “It has an umami-like pinot noir, but it’s not as harmed by botrytis.” And here on the island, though not as severe as elsewhere, botrytis is a constant issue. 

Here too the oak was powerful, but the wine also showed a delicate sensibility that made us want to reach for more. If we were impressed by the success of pinot gris at Domaine Ichi, we were convinced at our first sip here.