New York is having an Indian food moment—and it’s about time.
The newish Passerine might just be NYC’s best high-end Indian restaurant—even if they use comté in one of their dishes—decidedly not Indian. Which was fine by me. It was my second time there and just as fab as the first. Simply put? Rave review. Food is sensitive, playful, intense, layered.. and the noise level is bearable.
Pictured below is a “scallion” uttapam— those Southern fermented rice flour crepish things, here, stuffed with the kind of potato you get inside of a dosa. There’s supposed to be comté in the mix but where? Who cares. One of the best bar snacks ever. Then came an amuse of rosette of papads in a deconstruction of the ubiquitous nibble of chickpea flour crisps with tamarind. One small bite that was so good I had to crumble it to make it last for several. The charred caraflex cabbage floating in a pond of well-seasoned coconut “brown butter” that tasted a whole lot like a coconut dal with a serious kick— some of the best cabbage prep ever. Here is one restaurant where the beauty is bursting with skill and flavor.
The beverage director, April Busch (married to Passerine chef, Chetan Shetty) has been around and it shows on her list. I love that she doesn’t pander to clichés of Indian food and wine pairing—most famously riesling (though three Grüners?).
Her sparkling wine selection needs some spice. Nicolas Feuillatte at $420 just doesn’t seem to be a logical move. Lambrusco is such a smart choice—but I’d have loved her to go with one of class, Cinque Campi or many of the others— so many out there. Antinori next to Occhipinti takes some explaining— I imagine she wants recognizable brand for those who need it. Her by-the-glass choices could be improved.
I had a martini. Hats off to the bar chef!
However while not entirely tuned to the needs of the low intervention/ natural drinker—there are some choices. So look carefully. By the way, the last time I inquired, they did offer a $35 corkage with a 2 bottle maximum.
Perhaps the always delicious Bernard Baudry chenin for $65. A little light in this vintage, might not be the best match but it will be enjoyable—and that was my choice on my first visit this spring. My top two choices are either of the skin contact wines, listed here as ‘orange.” The Fonterezza is lovely. You won’t be disappointed. For reds, I’m a little stumped. I would be tempted by the Clos de Caveau — especially with a decade of age, but that vintage and cuvée is too extracted for me. Olga Raffault, nice, classic, sturdy. I would be willing to give the Magoutes Xinomavro a shot. For nostalgia—Lopez de Heredia? It’s a fine choice with these kind of aromatic spices with a kick.
Okay, class, tell me which wines you’d choose? And tell me what you’d pick from her domestic choices?
From one reader (looking at you, Marissa O!). For you it is easier than the rest of us but it is hard to know what is low intervention, natural, etc. On this list I think I want some Chenin, I want to try that Muscat from Greece, A Tribute to Grace from California.
You, Christy and I should meet up in Sanlucar.
Food looks beautiful. Personally, not much appeals on the wine list, but sometimes that makes it easier to find the highlights. I also picked the Fonterenza orange as my top choice.
Domestic, oy.. Sandhi Pinot or Jolie Laide Trousseau Gris.