The Ambassadors Clubhouse

What would you drink?

The impossible- to -get -into -Ambassadors Clubhouse is the buzzy new Punjabi restaurant in what they’re now calling NoMad (though in my mind it will always be the Gimbels district; even now it is really Korea Town). That’s why I pulled a few strings to get a reservation. 5:15? Ugh. Nevertheless, I took it.

The place is an elaborate recreation of Raj-era splendor inside a soulless office building; I couldn’t shake the feeling that there was something faintly Disney-esque about it. And yet, the London-based design studio North End Design pulled the transformation off. Step into the 8,000-square-foot, bi-level restaurant and you do feel transported into a plush colonial refuge. Downstairs is clubby, with dark leather, rich reds, and the air conditioning cranked high. Between the chill and the noise, I asked for a quieter table. We were ushered upstairs, where it was blissfully calmer. Thank you very much.

Expect to spend around $100 and up per person, depending on what you drink. As for the food, a few dishes—like the layered samosas—felt tricked out without enough substance—delicious but— too pastry heavy. But nearly everything else was excellent. The corn roti? So corny! The chana kulcha- was nicely spicy, goodly amount of heat and so varied in texture and taste.

Oh, and the paneer— thick cut and deliciously milky. Even the satisfying heft of the silverware was a nice touch. And the fact that they use dairy from Riverine Ranch earned them points. The fact that nothing welcoming arrived at the table while we waited for our food cost them a few. However, I left knowing I needed to return for the bhindi dhal that we forgot to order.

The wine list? That’s what this section is here for. The bulk is geared toward label drinkers who would be perfectly happy ordering Krug and those high rollers eager to impress; there’s a 1989 Petrus for $9,800 and a 2022 DRC Romanée-Conti for $17,000. But there are enough sensitive choices on that list of over 400 choices to keep the rest of us happy.

Wine director Amber Rill is responsible for that. When I learned she had been at Corkbuzz—which always had a strong Champagne program—I immediately understood why there are two gorgeous Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagnes on the list. More importantly, she believes Champagne is the ideal pairing for the cuisine.

“I think Champagne is the best wine to pair with our food, naturally matching the same complexity in texture and flavor that is in Punjabi cuisine,” she wrote to me. “I’ve been shouting it far and wide, and in a dream world would see Champagne on every table.”

I’m not entirely convinced. And if you’re looking for something sparkling under $100, you’re out of luck. It’s not that Champagne can’t work—it certainly can—but I’m not convinced the delicacy of an older Champagne wouldn’t be overwhelmed.

Our sommelier was Maggie Wood. So accodmodating, her finding some fino for me—appreciated. She knew who I was and let me make my own decisions without steering me, which I appreciated. She was also kind enough to splash us with the Arianna Occhipinti 2023 Siccagno (Nero d’Avola) —on the list for $150. I hadn’t had it, tasty.

Skip the glasses. Go to the bottles.

I’ve selected choices from their Champagne, French White, Spanish White, Red Southern France. Now go!

I’d rather drink Lambrusco than Champagne with Indian but if you’re buying? The 2015 Marie Noëlle Ledru—please! (If someone were generous enough to splurge. But I’m not even sure what I’d pair it with. Perhaps the creamy and mild morel dish? Or I haven’t seen what her successor is doing with the vines, they have the Vincent Bernard for $400. But more affordable is where I’d go, such as the Huré Frère or the Tarlant. Though it is somewhat jarring to see Ruinart on the same page with some really lovely Champers.

AND YOU?

This White section does not inspire confidence. There is so much greatness going on in these regions. There are two obvious options: Labet Fleur de Savagnin, which at $225—not so bad. Or that Roussanne blend from Maison Stéphan? I love the reds, not familiar with the whites, so at an affordable $95 give it a shot.

AND YOU?

This is the page we ultimately chose from. There were three great choices, which makes me think that Amber gets to be more creative with ‘other’ regions—and she prices them friendlier than the “brands,” a strategy I agree with.

Our choice was the Tendzado from Suertes del Marques. I first visited them in 2014, before they were organic when Eduardo Santana (of Envinate) was the winemaker. The vines are long, braided ones—called Tendzado. It was a weird visit and Jonatan (who makes the wine) and I had some conflict in the past, but I have to give it to him I thought the wine was brilliant. A touch of that Tenerife reduction that balanced and deepened the flavors as the air played with it

That’s the typical vine trellising of the island. Remember that for your M.S exam, Trenzado.

AND YOU??

Here is my pick: Texier 2019 at $115.

Please tell me which wines you’d get and why in the comments. Looking forward to hearing from you!