The Identity Issue
Every few months I assemble the articles into an issue with some sort of theme, and the new one is out. This issue reminds me of what happened when I was approaching my college graduation. What are my credits in and what sort of theme can I make from them so I can graduate? In the end I came up with the perfect solution for me, even though it felt like I was cheating. But I often paint and write the same way, out of confusion comes … something. So, I considered Deirdre Heekin's essay about identity and meaning and process. I realized it had a lot in common with my visit to Breganze. Did you know that disabused area in the Veneto is being rebirthed?
to the continuing evolution of Burgundy, and to my rethinking of my relationship with that venerable region now that my magnet is gone. Is ‘identity’ a theme that makes sense? You tell me. In any case, I hope you enjoy the ride.
But even though I said no gift issue this year. I do have some ideas. For those of you reading this in Asia—because these aren’t here—I fell in love with the Kimura beer glass. It’s a fabulous universal glass, the lip, edgy. The attack, terrific. I love the short stem and the more intimate experience with the wine. We saw them all over Japan, often when tasting with the local winemakers. A nice addition to your Zaltos and Glasvin collections, if you can find them.
Other gifts? Books are always great: Melissa Clark’s Dinner in One is fantastic. You’ll want Aaron Ayscough’s The World of Natural Wine. For French readers, Pascaline Lepeltier’s Mille Vignes. A Noble Rot subscription is really fun. There’s also food: my friends who I call, "The Kids” love chocolates from Kees, with good reason. Give your bread baker a subscription to Janie’s Mill or Barton Springs flour. Maybe a special New York State-made piece of clothing from D.L.Cerney (their online presence stinks, so go visit them on 9th street).
Who doesn't want a great bottle? Look through TFL, and anything with a heart, cool, classic symbol will be a great gift for anyone on your list. And yes, you can certainly give To Fall in Love, Drink This (DM me if you want a signed copy, I’ll wrap and ship—or call McNally Jackson), TFL newsletter or the wine club.
I’m not sure I like doing the best wines of the year, but it is worth remembering the wines I had this year that I wanted more of. One of them I might not ever see again because I only saw it in Austria. But I dream of the savagnin from Caveau de Val L’Amour. I fell madly in love with Domaine des 13 Lunes mondeuse as well. (For club members, decant it!) My goodness, the 2015 Selve from the Donnas? Truly extraordinary. And the 2017 Jgia Rosé from Blui felt like an important revelation and as I just wrote about it for Noble Rot, I wish I could taste Canonica’s 2013 Barolo, but the last time I had that was in 2019.
Winding down for the end of the year, I will do my best to take a four-week break from the newsletter. But I will fail, since I’m almost there are going to be champagne recommendations of something! But I need to take a few moments just to think, read, and be before I head out on a plane again, finally finishing “the novel?” Find my next project? (If you've suggestions, send them along.) Give Ethel a little more attention. There is something about doing all of this in the comfort of winter darkness as we get used to less sunlight, and winter vegetables and get a little closer to our inner Persephone.
Thank you so much for being with me here on this journey.
Have a great solstice! Holiday! New Years! And go out and eat a latke and spin a dreidle. Do have a peaceful, happy, healthy end of the year and the beginning of the next.
Alice