The Paris Guide: Part 1

For five glorious months I was based in a terrific little apartment in the 9th, a few steps from the Barbes-Rochechouart metro. My friend had warned me it wasn’t that safe for a little redhead like me, “But you’re a New Yorker,” he said. Then I asked him the exact address of the apartment. Oh! That? That’s ridiculously safe! And divinely authentic. What was included in my neighborhood? An inexpensive but fabulous wine bar, a great bistro,  a good fruit store, and one of the most underrated boulangeries in town. Aurelie Ribay? Her crusty baguette was admirable.

Her épeautre (spelt) loaf, and dense seigle (rye) way surpassed those more famous such as Mamiche, which I don’t get. Her soup sustained me. So did her quiche.

Ara, around the corner, was a vegan bean-to-bar chocolatier. And an extra bonus, the confections are barely sweet. I was also a twelve-minute walk from the mat pilates of my dreams. You have absolutely no reason to come to this hood (unless you want to sample the multiple wedding clothing stores) but if you find yourself, let’s say, going out of your way to go to the textile district (silk taffeta at 19 euro a meter) you might consider taking a stroll down Rue Faubourg du Poissonière and booking a table for dinner at Les Arlots. Okay. Let’s start with proper restaurant recommendations.