What to Drink at Casimir?

An old natural wine icon has been taken over by some new people and the results are...

In theory I was emotionally attached to Chez Casimir, the previously dark, natural wine temple with hearty and authentic food that was run by Thierry Breton. It was also the place where my then living French publisher, Jean Paul Rocher took me and Philippe Pacalet (who was pouring wine at said book party) out to dinner post said book party. I was so happy in that moment. The food, simple, fresh. Ingredient first. And, sentimental. So, when a rather well known resource for Paris dining who also is terrific company, asked me to join her, I jumped at the chance to check out the new Casimir (the new owners dropped the Chez.)

The bistrot is a short walk from Gare de Nord and a six minute walk from where I was staying —easy. And they have a great terrace, though the weather was cold. So, we were inside. The place redone—white walled and charm gone. Someone had thought white and green lattice of the 1980s was a good idea. Not for us. Food was beside the point (though that Fooding review has a different opinion) and unless they make some serious changes, sure, go, but select the most simple dishes you can.

One can see the change in sensibility on the wine list which has segued from the natural wine greatest heroes to middle-of-the-road safety. So while there are things to drink and not badly priced, you’ll have to navigate the bombs. I pulled one page, my favorite for you to take a look at.

What would you drink?

Yes, there is Tricot, but it was 2022 and I always try to get a little more age. Up for possibilities are the Chateau Le Puy which is one of the finest examples of Bordeaux out there, but why for the first time in my life buy a Bordeaux? So I’ll pass. Burgundy if I had to choose one, I’d go with the Pataille Marsannay (spelled wrong on their list. It does have two ns.) Lafarge? Yes, but the sulfur, in reality, is too high for me. But my choice? It would be the Chamonard. I hadn’t had them in ages as the price in the USA has spiked to unnatural proportions. The Morgon Le Clos de Lys—is a massale selection plot. It should have been delicious. 2

019 was a bigger year for Beaujolais but Chamonard’s carbonic style with traditional old wood elevate, is usually so delicate, a fatter year would be interesting, Other possibilities? Foillard? Sure and the Descombs? All good choices, but I’d indulge my curiosity. So Chamonard it should have been!

Alas, we went with something completely different! An old standby Bourgueil I hadn’t had in a long, long time Not going to tell you which one, but eh. Sometimes it goes like that, mistakes are made!

But you are not me! So what would you do? (And if you’ve had the 2019 Chamonard, please tell me what I missed.)