While La Matriciana is a fabulous, old school Roman restaurant—oh the fried artichokeds! the wines are almost all brands and the list does not inspire confidence. But so many restaurants of this kind fall into this kind of lock step. While you’re not looking at Frescobaldi or Banfi or others of that ilk, you’re in trouble if you care about natural or n…
© 2024 Alice Feiring
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