That Trip to Iceland
that weeks news, Iceland, book events and the wines --and a NYC wine bar, Rake
Yes. I was in Iceland. Yes, I saw melting glaciers, spouting geysers, smoking earth, and moss-covered lumps hiding centuries of secrets. No Blue Lagoon, but steaming outdoor baths, black sand, sheep, petite ponies and more waterfalls than I knew could exist in a tiny place. I came away wondering why does everyone seem to offer a tomato soup when all they have are pretty but not great hot house ones?
Best meal out of Reykjavik? Glacier View Guesthouse. After a quick stop at the black sand beach, we had a far too good for the café, “happy marriage cake” (kind of a rhubarb buckle) and called ahead and said, yes, please, we’d love you to make us dinner. En route we rode past that bumpy green carpet that turned out to be the Eldraun lava field. This was one of the remaining testaments to the devasting eight-month eruption from Laki that started in 1783 and created toxic plumes that killed thousands in Europe. Nature.
At our dinner, the other travelers joining were two from Brooklyn, two from Portugal and a solo traveler from Holland—politically incorrect Belgium jokes flowed. Latecomers were two Russians who were incredibly uncomfortable and even more uncomfortable when they found out someone at the table spoke Russian. I can’t imagine what it must be like for them traveling, or perhaps they were escaping to Iceland, avoiding the forthcoming draft? Even in the rurality of it all, the world bears down.
As great as it was, the truth is that I thrive being on the job. So, my day in Reykjavik for my event with many representatives of the Icelandic wine business scene (sommeliers, wine directors, importers) was so invigorating.
A trio of people made this happen. Ólafur Örn Ólafsson, based in Iceland (wine bar/restaurant owner par excellence), Tinna Óðinsdóttir, who though Icelandic now lives and works in Denmark and finally, the remarkable Alba Hough--sommelier now distiller--ultimately took the reigns of my welcome and the architecture of the event. After a lunch and a great coffee, she and I headed to the city’s main drag, up the steps to Apero where host, ex-pat (Quebecois) Marie Odile Désy had Foillard by the glass. A prize in that city.
The conversation spanned from wine colonialism to natural wine agebility to the possibility of growing vines on the island. The problems? No light for so many months and then too much light. And what about their powerful winds? (Not so much I think though it can be brutal.) Some wild ideas came out, like planting on top of geothermal sources (me thinks not a great idea), or by the coast, or what about in pits, like in the Canary Islands? The wines we had were not Icelandic, and they were so delicious I was sure it was a flower day, but it was a leaf! Maybe it's backward in Iceland?
As great as it was, the truth is that I thrive being on the job. So, my day in Reykjavik for my event with many representatives of the Icelandic wine business scene (sommeliers, wine directors, importers) was so invigorating.
A trio of people made this happen. Ólafur Örn Ólafsson, based in Iceland (wine bar/restaurant owner par excellence), Tinna Óðinsdóttir, who though Icelandic now lives and works in Denmark and finally, the remarkable Alba Hough--sommelier now distiller--ultimately took the reigns of my welcome and the architecture of the event. After a lunch and a great coffee, she and I headed to the city’s main drag, up the steps to Apero where host, ex-pat (Quebecois) Marie Odile Désy had Foillard by the glass. A prize in that city.
The conversation spanned from wine colonialism to natural wine agebility to the possibility of growing vines on the island. The problems? No light for so many months and then too much light. And what about their powerful winds? (Not so much I think though it can be brutal.) Some wild ideas came out, like planting on top of geothermal sources (me thinks not a great idea), or by the coast, or what about in pits, like in the Canary Islands? The wines we had were not Icelandic, and they were so delicious I was sure it was a flower day, but it was a leaf! Maybe it's backward in Iceland?
And joy! Hardly anyone posted on social media. We had an almost secret event except for me tripping up. How retro. How fabulous. Innocent times.
AND WHERE TO EAT?
Meanwhile, in NYC, have you been to Rake? It’s on the Lower East Side, on 1st Avenue and 3rd Street.
This is Jorge Arias’ place, owner of Urban Wines and Spirits, an unsung hero of New York City’s natural wine business.
Rake is an around-the-corner kind of wine bar that everyone needs in their backyard. Reasonable prices, and snacks of high quality. Drinkable, even interesting wines at under $13 a glass! Snacks! It’s very Euro, in the best way, like in some humble arrondissement.
Ah, so, in book promo: It’s Friday October 7th?
What are you doing tonight?
Please come to Harlem Wine Gallery! 7-9pm.
And in North Carolina, do mark the calendars for October 27rd for a casual event in Raleigh at The Parlor at The Heights House Hotel with Paula de Pano, it’s $55 and comes with a copy of the book. And on October 28th, I’ll be in conversation with the one and only Frank Bruni!
Another important item to think about coming is the Fern (Food & Environment Reporting Network) fundraising event. October 24th. I'll be talking with editor-in-chief, Sam Fromartz, Garrett Oliver and Rowan Jacobsen about the effect of climate change on beer, wine and cider.
Book news, seems like To Fall in Love, Drink This is in second printing already, have you bought your copy yet?
Had a terrific event in DC last week at Politics & Prose. Before I landed in Union Station, the wine shop Domestique ran a Q & A on me. Please get on their mailing list. Their newsletter is terrific, do sign up for it. While there I fell in love with Bold Fork Books (signed what seemed like 100 books!) and Nido in Nido in the Mount Pleasant neighborhood. Had a knockout gigante bean dish at José Andres’ Zatynia. Podcast alert: I recently talked to More to say, but I’ll shut up.
But! do you have a wine shop/bookstore and want to see if we can arrange something? Reach out, I'm sure we can manage it.
For those of you who also found the Clos Roche Blanche wines meaningful, I am so sad to tell you that Catherine Roussel died this week. Such a formative domaine in the Loire, not just for me. I hung my last chapter of The Battle for Wine and Love on her warm and wonderful shoulders. I will be forever glad that I insisted on seeing her the last time I was in the Loire, now too long ago, but still. Rest in peace.
Which on that sad note brings me to the present. I’m playing catchup on the dining section of the newsletter. Next time more in-depth about Iceland and about the use of natural sulfur in winemaking. This week I’m telling you about a memorable restaurant I visited in Tbilisi. Got to tell you, the culinary scene over there is explosive. And of course, the wines.
The links are behind a pay wall, and if you’d like to subscribe—-PLEASE DO! If the fee is too high, drop me a line and we’ll work it out.
Until then,
Alice
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